BC Fly Patterns

British Columbia Fly Patterns are as diverse as our beautiful province is itself. Below you will find the most prominent Fly Patterns of British Columbia, Canada.

Attractors Patterns

Alexandra

Hook: 14-8 Nymph or Streamer Thread: 8/0 black thread Tail: Red hackle fibers with 3 or 4 strands of peacock sword over top Body: Large, flat silver tinsel Rib: Medium oval silver tinsel Underwing: Red hackle Wing: Peacock sword Note: Excellent attractor pattern for rainbows and cutthroat. Also a good Kokanee pattern.

Tie in red hackle tips for tail. Then tie in 3 strands of peacock sword over top of the red hackle. Peacock and hackle should be same length. Tie in flat silver tinsel, and oval silver ribbing. Wrap flat tinsel forward to eye of hook, try and keep tinsel as flat and tight as possible. Then wrap the oval tinsel over the flat tinsel to add to the flies durability. Tie in red hackle tips along top of fly, extending back to end of tail. Tie in 5 or 6 strands of peacock sword over top of the red hackle. Trim, whip finish, and head cement.

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Copper Coachman

Hook: 10 or 8 nymph Thread: Brown or black 6/0 Tail: Pheasant tail fibers (short) Body: 1st 1/3 peacock herl, 2nd 1/3 copper wire, 3rd 1/3 peacock herl Wing: White Caftail Hackle: Brown saddle

Tie in several pheasant tail fibers at hook bend. Tie in 2 strands of good quality peacock herl and wrap 1/4 way up hook shank, and tie off. Tie in copper ribbing, and wrap forward another 1/4 way up hook shank. Make sure not to leave any gaps between wraps. Tie in 2 more strands of peacock herl and wrap forward another 1/4 way up hook shank and tie off. Tie in white caftail for wing, tips should extend back to end of tail. Tie in brown saddle hackle, and make 2 or 3 wraps, stroking biers back after each wrap. Tie off hackle, trim, whip finish, and head cement.

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Doc Spratley

Hook: 12-6 nymph Thread: 6/0 black Tail: Natural guinea hackle fibers Body: Black, green or red seal fur Ribbing: Medium flat silver tinsel Legs: Natural guinea hackle fibers Wing: Pheasant tail fibers Head: Peacock herl

Tie in guinea hackle fibers at bend of hook for tail. Tie in silver tinsel. Spin seal fur on to thread and wrap forward leaving enough room for head. Wrap tinsel over seal fur, keeping equal space between wraps, secure with thread and trim. Tie in guinea out bottom for legs, legs should be about the same length as tail. Select a clump of pheasant tail fibers and lay on top for wing. Make several soft wraps with your thread, to prevent the wing from flaring up. Progressively wrap tighter till the wing is secure on top. Tie in one strand of peacock herl, and wrap forward to eye of hook, secure with thread and trim. Whip finish and head cement.

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Doc Spratley (Thin)

Hook: 12-6 Streamer Thread: 6/0 black Tail: Guinea (natural) Body: Green yarn (Thin) Wing: Pheasant tail Throat: Guinea (natural) Head: Peacock herl Note: Can be tied in black, green, or red.

Tie in guinea fibers at bend of hook with several wraps of thread, and trim excess butts. Tie in flat medium silver tinsel, and yarn. Wrap yarn forward keeping the body thin. Tie off yarn, leaving enough room for head. Then wrap flat medium silver tinsel over the body and secure and trim. Tie in a clump of guinea fibers, with points extending back under the the body. Tie in pheasant tail with tips extending back to tail. Make your first few wraps of thread light to help the pheasant lay flat as possible. Lastly, tie in a strand of peacock herl for the head. Make several wraps. Tie off at eye of hook, trim, whip finish, and head cement.

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Muddler Minnow

Hook: 2-14 streamer Thread: 6/0 black Tail: Mottled turkey quill Body: Gold diamond braid or flat gold tinsel Underwing: Gray squirrel tail Wing: Mottled turkey quill Collar: Deer hair, spun Head: Deer hair, spun and clipped

Tie in a small piece of mottled brown turkey quill at bend of hook. Apply flex-cement to tail to prevent it from splitting. Tie in your gold diamond braid or flat silver tinsel. Wrap forward along shank of hook, if your using flat silver tinsel, you may have to go back and forth over the shank 3 or 4 times. Then tie off, make sure to leave enough room for head. Tie in a few gray squirrel tail fibers for underwing. Trim a turkey quill from both sides of the stem for the wing. Tie in as wing, and apply some flex-cement to prevent it from splitting. With thumb and two fingers lay some coarse gray deer hair directly against the side closest toward you. Make one wrap over bundle of deer with thread, and pull down tightly. Make a few more wraps pulling even tighter. Take an equal amount of deer hair as was taken the first time and using thumb and forefinger put it on the opposite side of the quill in the same position as you did the first group of hair. Make a few tight wraps. Whip finish, and head cement. Trim deer hair to shape of head, leaving deer hair tips extending back as collar.

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Pheasant Tail Spratley

Hook: 14-6 nymph Thread: 8/0 black Tail: Pheasant tail fibers Body: Pheasant tail fibers wrapped Rib: Flat small silver tinsel Wing: Pheasant tail fibers Legs: Pheasant tail fibers Head: Peacock herl

Tie in pheasant tail fibers at bend of hook for tail. Don't trim butts they will be used for body. Pull pheasant tail butts back and secure back with thread. Tie in flat silver tinsel. Wrap pheasant tail butts along shank, leaving just enough room for the head of the fly. Wrap tinsel over pheasant tail body and secure with thread and trim. Tie in pheasant tail tips underneath for legs. Legs should be about the same length as tail. Tie in pheasant tail tips out top for wing. Wing should extend well past the body and almost to the end of tail. Tie in 1 or 2 strands of peacock herl, make 3 or 4 wraps and secure with thread. Trim, whip finish, and head cement.

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Professor

Hook: 12-8 Mustad 9672 Thread: Black 6/0 Tail: Red sadle hackle fibers Body: Yellow goat dubbing Rib: Oval gold tinsel Hackle: Brown saddle hackle Wing: Mallard Flank

Tie in red hackle fibers at bend of hook, and trim off excess butts. Tie in oval gold ribbing Dub yellow goat dubbing on to your thread and wrap forward, leaving enough room at eye to tie in hackle and wing. Wrap oval gold rib over top of yellow goat body. Tie in brown saddle hackle, make 2 or 3 wraps, stroking the fibers back after each turn. Tie in mallard on top of fly, tips should extend past the body. Trim excess, whip finish, and head cement.

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Ross Special

Hook: 10-6 nymph Thread: Black 6/0 Tail: Speckled Pheasant tail fibers Body: Orange Seal fur Shellback: Brown scud back Rib: Medium copper wire Wingcase: Speckled pheasant Hackle: Dark brown saddle

Tie in a few speckled pheasant fibers at bend of hook for tail and trim butts. Tie in copper wire and scud back. Spin seal fur on to thread and wrap forward 3/4 the way up the hook shank. Pull scud back over seal body. Secure with thread and trim. Wrap copper wire 4-6 times around the body. Secure with thread and trim. Tie in speckled pheasant out over body for wingcase. Spin more seal on to thread and wrap forward to just before eye of hook. Make thorax slightly larger than body. Tie in 1 dark brown saddle hackle and make 4 or 5 wraps at eye of hook. Stroke saddle fibers back as you wrap. Secure and trim. Pull pheasant forward over thorax and hackle. Secure at eye of hook and trim. Whip finish and head cement.

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Caddisflies Patterns

Adams Irresistible

Hook: 14 to 8 light wire dry fly Thread: 6/0 black Tail: Moose body hair Body: Spun and clipped natural deer hair Wings: Grizzly hackle tips Hackle: Brown and grizzly

Tie in several moose body hair fibers at bend of hook for tail. Use a hair stacker to even up tips before tying in. Wrap thread over a clump of deer hair about the diameter of a pencil at beginning of body. Pull hair back and tie in another clump. Repeat step 3 until you read 3/4 the way up the hook shank. Trim deer hair to shape. Tie in 2 grizzly hackle tips straight up about the same length as the body. Tie in a brown and a grizzly hackle and wrap them forward to the eye of the hook. Trim , whip finish, and head cement.

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Carey Special

Hook: 10-6 nymph Thread: 6/0 black Tail: Pheasant rump Body: Olive chenille Rib: Copper wire Hackle: Pheasant rump.

Tie in pheasant rump at bend of hook for tail. Next, tie in copper wire ribbing and olive chenille. Wrap olive chenille forward along hook shank and tie off just before eye. Wrap copper wire over chenille and secure with thread. For the hackle you can either wrap pheasant rump and pull back with fingers. Or tie in several pheasant rump fibers on top, bottom, and both sides. Whip finish, and head cement.

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Cased Caddis

Hook: 10-6 TMC 300 Thread: 6/0 black Body: Peacock herl Rib: Copper wire Hackle: Brown Saddle trimmed short Neck: Tan dubbing Head: Black dubbing

Tie in copper wire, 1 or 2 strands of brown saddle hackle by their tips, and 3 strands of peacock herl. Wrap peacock herl 3/4 the way up the hook shank, secure with thread and trim. Wrap saddle hackle forward over peacock herl and secure with thread, and trim. Wrap copper wire over hackle, for durability and secure with thread and trim. Dub tan dubbing on to hook, and make 2 or 3 wraps. Tan section of fly should be about 1/2 the size of the head. Dub black dubbing on to thread and wrap dubbing up to the eye of the hook, to form head. Whip finish and head cement. Trim saddle hackle short on top, bottom, and both sides. Lastly, use a bodkin to pull out some of the black dubbing.

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Elk Hair Caddis

Hook: 14-8 thin wire Thread: 8/0 tan Body: Tan or brown dubbing Hackle: Black saddle hackle clipped short Wing: Natural elk hair Head: Butts from wing

Tie in 2 brown saddle hackles by their tips. Dub dubbing on to thread and wrap forward along hook shank, leave enough room for head of fly. Palmer brown saddle over the dubbing and then secure with thread. Trim brown saddle hackle short on top, bottom, and both sides. Use a hair stacker to even up the tips of the elk hair and then tie a clump in as wing. Trim butts to form a head. Whip finish and head cement.

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Hatheume Nymph

Hook: 10-6 nymph Thread: 6/0 black Body: Olive/green chenille Rib: Medium gold flat tinsel Legs: Blue pheasant rump

Tie in ribbing at bend of hook. Then, tie in olive chenille. Wrap thread forward to eye of hook, and then wrap the chenille forward and secure with thread. Leave enough room to tie in legs. Wrap ribbing forward and secure with thread, and trim. Tie in a clump of blue pheasant on top, bottom, and both sides. Legs should extend past body slightly. Trim excess pheasant, whip finish, and head cement.

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Humpy

Hook: 8 to 14 light wire Thread: 8/0 tan Tail: Natural deer hair or moose main Body: Red, orange, or green 4 strand floss Shellback: same as tail Wing: White calf tail Hackle: Brown

Tie in deer hair or moose main fibers for tail. Pull butts back over tail and secure back with thread. Tie in floss and wrap forward half way up the hook shank and secure with thread. Pull butts from tail forward over floss body and secure with thread and trim. Wrap thread forward to 3/4 the way up the hook shank and tie in calf tail split at 45 degree angles to each side for wings. Wrap thread around each clump of calf tail to form two posts. Wrap thread back to end of body and tie in 2 brown hackle fibers. Wrap hackle fibers forward around the wing and to the eye of the hook. Secure with thread, trim, whip finish, and head cement.

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Kamloops Pupae

Hook: 10-6 nymph Thread: 6/0 black Body: Medium or light olive dubbing. Thorax: Peacock herl Shellback: Green pheasant rump Legs: Green pheasant rump Head: Peacock herl

Dub olive dubbing on to thread and wrap forward with a slight taper. Stop dubbing half way up hook shank. Tie in green pheasant with tips pointing over the back. Tips will be used for legs, so measure before tying in, legs should extend to the end of the body. Tie in 3 strands of peacock herl and wrap forward another 1/4 way up the hook shank. Tie off the peacock herl and trim. Pull the pheasant forward over the peacock herl and tie it in with thread. Pull tips from the wingcase down and pull them back, secure them in this position with a few wraps of thread. Tie in another strand of peacock herl and make a few wraps to form a head. Trim, whip finish, and head cement.

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Knouff Lake Special

Hook: 10-6, long shank Thread: 6/0 black Tail: Golden Pheasant Tippets Body: Olive chenille tied thick Rib: Yellow floss Hackle: Soft blue-gray pheasant rump tied sparse.

Tie in golden pheasant tippets as tail at bend of hook and trim butts. Tie in your olive chenille and orange floss. Wrap thread forward, and then wrap the chenille forward tie in with thread, and trim. Leave a space about the size of the hook eye between the chenille and eye of hook. Wrap yellow ribbing forward over chenille, you should make approximately 3 or 4 wraps for smaller sizes,and for larger ones up to 5 or 6 wraps. Tie in a few strands of blue pheasant rump on top, bottom, and both sides. Trim, whip finish, and head cement.

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P.D. Pupae

Hook: 12-8 nymph Thread: 6/0 black Body: Olive Seal fur. Rib: Copper wire Wingcase: Pheasant rump Thorax: Peacock herl Legs: Pheasant rump

Wrap thread to bend of hook, and tie in copper wire. Dub seal fur on to thread and wrap 3/4 the way up the hook shank. Wrap the wire ribbing over the seal fur, secure with thread, and trim. Tie in pheasant rump for wingcase, with tips extending back over body. Tips will be tied underneath for tail. So before tieing in pheasant. Measure the pheasant rump along the hook shank. Legs should extend past hook point. Tie in 3 strands of peacock herl for thorax, wrap forward to just before eye of hook and tie off with thread, and trim excess peacock herl. Pull pheasant rump forward to form wingcase. Tie in with thread, and pull pheasant rump tips down and back for legs. Make a few extra wraps of thread to secure legs in this position. Whip finish and head cement.

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Peacock Caddis

Hook: Mustad 94845 sizes 14 to 8 Thread: 8/0 black Body: Peacock herl Wing: Tan elk hair Hackle: Brown and grizzly hackle, mixed

Tie in 2 strands of peacock herl at bend of hook and wrap forward 3/4 the way up the hook shank. Secure with thread and trim. Gather a clump of tan elk hair, and even up tips with a hair stacker. Tie in as wing, wing should extend the length of the body. Tie in 1 brown and 1 grizzly hackle by their tips. Wrap the hackles forward to eye of hook, one at a time. Secure with thread and trim. Whip finish and head cement.

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Simple Sedge

Hook: 10 - 6 nymph Thread: 8/0 black Body: Brown chenille Wing: Blue/Gray pheasant rump Legs: Blue/Gray pheasant rump

Tie in brown chenille at bend of hook, and wrap forward to just before eye. Tie in a clump of blue pheasant rump over top for wing. Wing should extend to the end of the body. Tie in a clump of blue pheasant rump underneath for legs. Legs should extend to end of body. Whip finish, and head cement.

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Six Pack

Hook: 12-6 Nymph Thread: 6/0 black thread Tail: Speckled pheasant fibers Body: Speckled pheasant wrapped Rib: Gold wire Wing: Speckled pheasant wrapped

Tie in speckled pheasant at bend of hook for tail, and trim butts. Tie in gold wire and speckled pheasant fibers. Wrap speckled pheasant fibers forward to eye of hook and trim.  Tie in a clump of speckled pheasant out of each side, and top and bottom, and trim butts. Whip finish and head cement.

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Swandaze Caddis

Hook: TMC 200R, Mustad 9671, sizes 16-10 Thread: 6/0 brown Body: Brown medium swandaze Head: Dark brown or black seal fur picked out

Tie in brown swandaze at bend of hook. Don't trim butt of swandaze close, instead trim it about 4/5 away from eye. And secure along shank. This way body will not be thicker at abdomen. Wrap swandaze forward to about 4/5 the way up the hook shank. Then secure with thread and trim. Dub black or dark brown seal on to thread and make a few wraps to form head. Whip finish and head cement. Use a bodkin to pull out fibers.

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Traveling Sedge Pupa

Hook: 10-6 nymph Thread: 6/0 black Body: brown seal fur Rib: green super floss Shellback: Pheasant tail fibers Legs: Ring-necked pheasant rump fibers blue/green Head: Peacock herl

Tie in superfloss at bend of hook for ribbing. Dub brown seal fur on to hook and wrap it half way up hook shank. Wrap superfloss forward over the body and tie off with thread. Tie in pheasant tail with tips pointing back. Dub seal fur another 1/4 way up hook shank, make the thorax slightly thicker than the body. Pull pheasant tail forward and tie off as wingcase. Tie in a few strands of ring-neck pheasant rump fibers on both sides for legs. Tie in 2 strands of peacock herl and make a 3 or 4 wraps to form head. Secure peacock herl with thread, trim excess peacock herl, whip finish, and head cement.

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Tom Thumb

Hook: 16-8 dry fly Thread: Tan 6/0 Tail: Deer hair Body: Deer hair Wing: Deer body hair, tips from body

Even the tips of a clump of deer hair with a hair stacker, and then tie in as tail. For body, Tie in another clump of deer hair, with tips facing back over the tail. The length should be equal to that of the hook shank and tail. Butt ends are laid along hook, and secured with a few wraps of thread to form a sheath body. Wrap forward securing the deer hair and tie it off at the head. Pull the deer hair forward (tight) and secure tightly with thread, allow tips to extend forward to form wing. Make a few wraps of thread between wing and eye to help wing stand up at 45% angle. Whip finish, and head cement.

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Chironomids Patterns

Bead-head Chironomid

Hook: 14-10 TMC 2457 Scud Hooks Thread: 8/0 black thread Body: Black super floss Rib: Thin silver, gold, or copper wire Thorax: Peacock herl Head: Drilled Taper Copper or Black bead Gills: White Z-lon Note: Can be tied in many colors such as black, olive, maroon, brown, lime, red, tan, and even orange. Bead head, helps you get to the desired depth, quickly.

Before placing fly in your vice, pinch barb, and slide bead on to the hook and up to the eye of hook. Make sure the the side of the bead with the larger hole is facing the eye of the hook. Place hook in vice, and push the bead back. Secure thread just before the eye of the hook. Tie in Z-lon at the eye of the hook, extending out over the eye of the hook. Next trim the Z-lon to desired length, whip finish and trim your thread, and slide bead head up to eye of hook. Re-attach thread, on other side of the hook and tie in one strand of superfloss and one strand of thin wire near the end of hook where the body of the fly should begin. Wrap the superfloss along the shank of the hook. Make the wraps as tight as possible with a slight taper. Tie off superfloss, just before the bead and then wrap the wire ribbing over the superfloss, try to keep spaces between wraps even. Tie in a strand of peacock herl just before the bead head, make 2 or 3 wraps. Secure with thread, trim peacock herl, and whip finish

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Bloodworm

Hook: 14-10, 2X Thread: 8/0 red Tail: 2 short strands of red super floss Body: Red super floss or red acetate floss. Rib: Silver wire or pearl flashabou Note: Most common color is red or maroon, but brown and even green larva can be found as well. So you may want to have a couple of these in different colors, just in case.

Tie in 2 strands of superfloss at hook bend. Lay the superfloss in an X like fasion so that they will form a V. Trim the 2 strands, short. Tie in superfloss, keeping thread wraps tight and to a minimum to prevent bulk. Tie in thin silver wire for ribbing. Wrap superfloss foward tightly. Tie off the superfloss at the eye of the hook. Wrap silver wire foward, try to keep segmentation even between wraps. Tie in ribbing at eye of hook, trim excess, whip finish, and head cement.

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Chan's Chironomid

Hook: Mustad 9671 size 16-6 Thread: 6/0 brown Tail: Guinea hackle fibers Rib: Fine gold wire Body: Pheasant tail fibers Thorax: Peacock herl Gills: White ostrich herl Wingcase: Mottled turkey wing quill

Tie in guinea fibers short, as tail. Tie in a few strands of pheasant tail and fine gold wire. Wrap pheasant tail forward 3/4 of the way up the hook shank, secure with thread and trim. Wrap gold wire forward over pheasant tail and secure with thread and trim. Tie in turkey wing with tips extending back over body. Tie in 1 strand of peacock herl and make 2 or 3 wraps then secure with thread and trim. Tie in one strand of white ostrich herl, and make 2 wraps and secure with thread and trim. Pull turkey wing quill forward over peacock and ostrich herl, and secure with thread.

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Chironomid Pupa

Hook: 16-8 Tiemco TMC 2312 Emerger Thread: 8/0 black Body: Black super floss Rib: Thin silver, gold, or copper wire Thorax: 2 strands of Peacock herl Gills: 2 wraps of white ostrich herl Note: Can be tied in many colors such as black, olive, maroon, brown, lime, red, tan, and even orange.

Tie in one strand of superfloss near the end of the hook, where the body of the fly should begin. Then tie in your thin wire ribbing. Wrap the superfloss along the shank of the hook. Make the wraps as tight as possible with a slight taper. Tie off superfloss, about 1/4 or less from the eye of the hook. Then wrap your silver wire over the superfloss, try to keep the space between wraps as even as possible. The next step is to tie in 1 or 2 strands of peacock herl. Make 2-3 turns and then tie off, leaving enough room for the gills. Tie in one strand of white ostrich herl, and make approximately 2 wraps for gills. Tie off the ostrich herl, trim, and whip finish.

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Flashabou Redbutt

Hook: TMC 2312 Emerger Thread: 8/0 black Butt: Red crystal flash Body: Black flashabou Rib: Fine silver wire Thorax: Peacock herl Gills: Ostrich herl

Tie in red crystal flash at bend of hook and make several wraps to form butt. Then secure with thread and trim. Tie in 3 or 4 strands of black flashabou and fine silver wire. Wrap black flashabou forward, secure with thread and trim, leaving enough room for thorax. Wrap silver wire forward, secure with thread, and trim. Tie in 1 or 2 strands of peacock herl and make 3 or 4 wraps then secure with thread and trim. Tie in one strand of peacock herl, then make 2 wraps, secure with thread and trim. Whip finish, and head cement.

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Glass-Bead Chironomid

Hook: 16-10 TMC 2457 Scud Hooks Thread: 8/0 black thread Body: Black flashabou or super floss Rib: Thin silver, gold, copper or red wire Thorax: Peacock herl Head: Killer Caddis Glass Beads Note: The Glass-Bead Chironomid can be tied in many different colors to match the naturals. Popular colors include black, olive, brown, maroon, red, lime green, tan, and orange.

First, pinch down barb so you can slide bead on to hook. Then slide the glass bead to the eye of your hook. Tie in thread behind eye, and build up thread behind bead to secure bead in place. Wrap thread back to where the body of the fly should begin. And tie in 3 strands of flashabou or one strand of super floss. Next tie in your ribbing, and wind thread up to the glass bead. Wrap floss forward to the glass bead, secure with thread, and trim. Next, wrap your ribbing forward to the bead, keep spaces between wraps evenly segmented. Secure ribbing with thread, and trim. The final step is to tie in a single strand of peacock herl just before the bead, to build up the thorax (wing-case) of the chironomid. Make 2 or 3 wraps with the peacock herl, then secure with thread and trim. Finally, whip finish, trim, and head cement.

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Red Butt

Hook: 16-10 nymph Thread: 8/0 black Tag: Bright red yarn Body: Pheasant tail Rib: Medium flat gold tinsel Wingcase: Pheasant tail Thorax: Peacock herl Gills: White ostrich herl

Tie in bright red yarn at bend of hook for tag. Make a few wraps then tie off. Tie in medium flat gold tinsel for ribbing. Tie in a few strands of pheasant tail and wrap them forward, 3/4 way up hook shank. Don't trim the excess butts from the pheasant tail body. The butt section will be used to form the wingcase. Wrap medium flat gold ribbing over the pheasant tail, and secure with thread. Pull pheasant tail butts back towards eye of hook. And tie in 2 strands of peacock herl, make 2 or 3 wraps and secure with thread. Tie in white ostrich herl and make approximately 2 wraps, then secure it with thread. Pull pheasant tail butts over the peacock herl and ostrich herl to form the wingcase. Tie the pheasant down with thread, trim off excess butts, whip finish, and head cement.

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Snow Cone Chironomid

Hook: TMC 2312 or TMC 200R Size 14-10 Thread: 8/0 black Body: Black frostbite Rib: Fine silver wire Head: White plastic bead

This is a very simple yet effective chironomid pupa pattern. Slide a white plastic bead on to the hook before placing in the vice Tie in frostbite and silver wire where the body of the fly should begin. Wrap frostbite forward, up to the white bead, then secure with thread, and trim. Wrap silver wire over body, try to keep segmentation between wraps even. Secure wire behind bead with thread, trim, whip finish, and head cement.

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Stewies Crystal Chironomid

Hook: TMC 2487 size 14-10 Thread: 8/0 white Body: Superfloss, most popular colors include black, shades of olive, shades of brown, and maroon Rib: Silver wire on black and maroon, Gold wire on olive and brown bodies Thorax: Peacock herl Gills: White Z-lon Head: #10 Crystal bead

Slide the crystal bead on to the hook before placing in the fly vice. Then place the fly in the vice. Slide the bead to the eye of the hook, and make a thread base behind the bead, to secure it in place. Wrap the thread back and tie in superfloss and thin wire ribbing. Wrap thread forward followed by the superfloss and secure with thread about a beads length away from the bead. Wrap the ribbing forward, keeping segments as equal as possible. Secure with thread and trim. Tie in one strand of peacock herl and make 2 or 3 wraps, secure with thread and trim. Tie in white Z-lon with tips extending over top of glass bead about 1/8 of an inch, trim butts and whip finish.

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Tunkwanamid

Hook: 16-8 Nymph Thread: 8/0 black Tag: Silver Tinsel Body: Peacock herl Rib: Silver oval tinsel Gills: gray or white ostrich herl

Tie in silver ribbing, and make 2 or 3 wraps to form tag. Next, tie in 2 strands of peacock herl and wrap forward leaving about 2 hook eyes of space between peacock and eye of hook. Wrap ribbing over peacock herl, try to keep equal distance between wraps. Tie in one strand of ostrich herl to imitate the gills of the chironomid pupa, make 2 or 3 wraps then tie of, trim, whip finish, and head cement.

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Cutthroat Patterns

Epoxy Minnow

Hook: 12 to 8 Mustad 9672 Thread: Olive or white 6/0 Tag: Olive mallard w/ pearl krystal flash Body: Flat silver mylar wrap Back: Olive mallard Eye: 1.5 mm stick on eyes Note: Cote 5 min Devcon Epoxy over body, back, and eyes.

Tie in mallard at bend of hook for tail. Do not trim butts, they will be used for the back. Tie in 2 or 3 strands of pearl krystal flash out back as well. Tie in flat mylar and wrap back and forth over body till entire hook shank is covered, then secure with thread at the eye of the hook. Pull mylar forward over the tinsel and secure with thread at eye of hook. Trim and whip finish. Stick on the eyes on either side near the eye of the hook. Mix a small amount of devcon epoxy with a toothpick and then apply it on the top of the fly over the shellback and the eyes. Don't worry about covering the bottom because the epoxy will run down over the bottom of the fly. Once you have applied enough epoxy, rotate the fly slowly for about 5 minutes until epoxy begins to harden. Then store in a place where it wont rub up against anything for about 30 minutes, or until epoxy hardens.

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Glo-Bug

Hook: Size 8 - 6 short shank Thread: 3/0 Tan Body: Fluorescent pink or chartreuse glo bug yarn

Secure thread on to hook shank. Tie in a clump of glo bug yarn tightly. Causing tips to flair up. Tie in another clump up against the first clump, and repeat until you reach the eye of the hook. Whip finish and head cement. Trim yarn to shape of egg.

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Mickey Finn

Hook: 4-12 streamer Thread: 6/0 black Body: Thin mylar wrap or flat silver tinsel Wing: Bucktail, from bottom to top, yellow, red, yellow Note: A great cutthroat pattern but can also be very good for coho.

Tie in mylar wrap at bend of hook, and wrap it forward to just before eye of hook. Overlap slightly on each wrap to prevent any hook shank from showing. Next, tie in a clump of yellow bucktail extending a little past body and trim. Tie in a clump of red bucktail over the yellow bucktail and trim. Tie in another clump of yellow bucktail over the red bucktail and trim. Whip finish, and head cement.

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Rolled Muddler

Hook: 8 or 6 streamer Thread: 6/0 black Tail: Mallard flank Body: Medium flat silver tinsel Underwing: Mallard flank Overwing: A few strands of deer hair from head. Head: Deer hair, color to match mallard flank. Note: Can be tied in green, red, yellow, purple. and in natural.

Tie in mallard at hook bend. Tie in flat tinsel, then wrap thread forward leaving enough room for the spun deer hair head. Wrap silver tinsel forward, overlapping slightly on each wrap. Secure with thread, and then tie in more mallard for the wing. Tips should reach the tips of the tail. Lay a clump of deer hair between the wing and the eye of the hook, perpendicular to the hook shank. Wrap thread over deer hair, this should cause the deer hair to flare upwards. Make a few more wraps to secure deer hair, then whip finish, and head cement. The last step is to trim the deer hair to form head. The head should be trimmed to a small size and should be rounded. Leave a few strands of deer hair, extending back over wing.

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Tied Down Minnow

Hook: Size 10-6, 3X long Thread: Olive 6/0 Tail: Dyed olive mallard flank Body: Silver small braid mylar wrap Back: Dyed olive mallard flank Throat: Red hackle fibers.

Tie in mallard flank for tail. Tail should be about 1/3 length of the body. Don't trim the butts, they will be used for the back of the fly. Pull mallard butts back and secure them back with a few wraps of thread. Tie in mylar wrap and wrap it forward. Tie in red hackle fibers, facing down to imitate the egg sack. Pull mallard tightly over body and secure with thread. Trim, and whip finish. Apply 2 coats of head cement to head, body, and back. This will help prevent the mallard from splitting.

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Damselflies Patterns

52 Buick

Hook: 12-8 Nymph Thread: 6/0 black thread Tail: Olive guinea fowl or mallard flank Body: Various shades of green seal fur Rib: Medium oval silver or gold tinsel Beard: Olive guinea fowl or mallard flank Head: Peacock herl

Tie in tips of guinea for tail, and trim off the butt ends. Tail should be at least half the lank of shank. Tie in oval tinsel. Dub seal fur on to your thread and wrap the dubbing towards eye of hook, leaving enough room for the head of the fly. Wrap your oval ribbing over the seal fur and trim. Tie in another set of guinea fowl tips for the beard. Guinea tips should extend to the hook point. Last step is to tie in a strand of peacock herl, make 2 or 3 wraps, tie off, trim, and whip finish.

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Giant Damsel

Hook: TMC 300, Mustad 79580, sizes 6-10 Thread: Olive 6/0 Tail: Dyed olive grizzly hackle Body: Olive and black variegated wool yarn Legs: Dyed olive grizzly hackle Wing: Dyed olive grizzly hackle Head: Light olive chenille.

Tie in grizzly marabou at bend of hook for tail. Tail should be about half the length of the body. Dub wool yarn on to thread and wrap forward leaving enough room for the chenille head. Tie in more grizzly hackle out the top and bottom, both the wing and the legs should be about the same length as tail. Tie in olive chenille and make 1 or 2 wraps to form head, and then secure with thread. Trim, whip finish, and head cement.

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Larva Lace Damsel

Hook: 8 nymph Thread: 8/0 olive Tail: 3 Goose biots Body: Green larva lace Wingcase: light green pheasant tail Thorax: Peacock herl Legs: Light green pheasant tail.

Tie in 3 goose biots for tail. To represent the 3 distinct gills on a damsel fly nymph. 1 Goose biot to each side, and one out the middle. Tie in larva lace with but extending down the shank, so that you don't have a thicker abdomen then thorax. Wrap larva lace forward 7 times. Tie in pheasant tail with tips extending over body. Tie in 2 strands of peacock herl and wrap forward to just before eye. Tie in pheasant tail tips or legs on both sides of the thorax. Pull pheasant tail forward over thorax and tie in with thread. Whip finish, and head cement.

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Larva Lace Marabou Damsel

Hook: 8 nymph Thread: 8/0 olive Tail: Light green marabou Body: Green Larva Lace Wingcase: Dyed light olive pheasant tail Thorax: Woolly bugger marabou wrapped Eyes: black small plastic

Secure plastic eyes on hook, just before the eye of the hook by making several figure eight's with your tying thread. Wrap thread back to bend of hook and tie in marabou fibers for tail. Tie in larva lace for body, let but lay along the entire length of body, so that the beginning of body is not thicker than the rest. Wrap larva lace forward seven times to imitate the 7 distinct segments on a damsel fly. Tie in pheasant tail for wingcase, with tips extending back over body. Tie in Woolly bugger marabou and wrap forward to the plastic eyes. Pull pheasant tail forward over thorax and secure with thread. Whip finish and head cement.

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Marabou Damsel

Hook: 10-8 nymph Thread: 6/0 black Tail: olive marabou Body: olive marabou wrapped Rib: Fine gold wire Legs: Died olive pheasant tail Wingcase: Died olive pheasant tail Thorax: Olive Marabou Wrapped Eyes: black plastic Note: Can be tied in many shades of tan, olive, and brown.

Wrap thread forward to eye of hook, and tie in black plastic eyes. This is done by criss crossing back and forth over the middle of the eyes, in a figure eight motion until the eyes are locked in place. Tie in marabou at hook bend for tail. Don't trim the butts, they will be used to form body. Tie in fine gold ribbing. Wrap marabou forward, 3/4 the way up the hook shank, and tie off with thread, but still do not trim butts. Wrap ribbing over the body and secure with thread, and trim. Tie in olive pheasant with tips facing back over the body. Tie in a clump of pheasant on either side for legs. Make a few more wraps with marabou until you reach the eyes. By now the marabou should be getting more bushy and should create a thorax slightly thicker than the body. Pull pheasant laying over body forward for wingcase. Tie in with thread, whip finish, and head cement.

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Seal Fur Damsel

Hook: 12-6 nymph Thread: 8/0 olive Tail: Speckled pheasant tail Body: Olive seal fur Ribbing: Medium silver wire Wingcase: Speckled pheasant tail Legs: Speckled pheasant tail

Tie in pheasant at bend of hook for tail. Tie in silver wire. Spin seal fur on to thread and wrap forward 3/5 up the hook shank. Wrap wire over seal fur 3 or 4 times and secure with thread and trim. Tie in pheasant tail with tips extending back over body. Dub more olive seal fur on to thread and wrap forward to just before eye. Tie in pheasant tail out bottom for legs. Pull pheasant tail over thorax to form wingcase. Secure with thread and trim. 9) Whip finish and head cement.

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Segmented Damsel

Hook: 10 or 12 nymph Thread: 8/0 olive Tail: Olive marabou Tail Ribbing: 2lb mono filament Body: Olive marabou wrapped Rib: Gold wire Wingcase: Olive pheasant tail. Thorax: Woolly bugger marabou wrapped Legs: Olive pheasant tail

Tie in marabou at bend of hook for tail. Tail should be about 1 and a half time the length of the body. Tie 2lb test mono filament in knots around the marabou tail in 3 equal segments. Tie in gold wire for ribbing. Tie in marabou for body and wrap forward half way up hook shank. Tie in pheasant tail with tips extending back over body. Tie in woolly bugger marabou and wrap forward to just before eye of hook. Tie in several pheasant tail tips on either side of thorax for legs. Pull pheasant tail forward for wingase and secure with thread. Trim, Whip finish, and head cement knot, wingcase, and the 3 mono filament knots on the tail.

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Swimming Marabou Damsel

Hook: 10-8 swimming nymph Thread: 6/0 black Tail: olive marabou Body: olive marabou wrapped Rib: Fine gold wire Legs: Died olive pheasant tail Wingcase: Died olive pheasant tail Thorax: Olive Marabou Wrapped Eyes: black plastic Note: Can be tied in many shades of tan, olive, and brown

Wrap thread forward to eye of hook, and tie in black plastic eyes. This is done by criss crossing back and forth over the middle of the eyes, in a figure eight motion until the eyes are locked in place. Tie in marabou at hook bend for tail. Don't trim the butts, they will be used to form body. Tie in fine gold ribbing. Wrap marabou forward, 3/4 the way up the hook shank, and tie off with thread, but still do not trim butts. Wrap ribbing over the body and secure with thread, and trim. Tie in olive pheasant with tips facing back over the body. Tie in a clump of pheasant on either side for legs. Make a few more wraps with marabou until you reach the eyes. By now the marabou should be getting more bushy and should create a thorax slightly thicker than the body. Pull pheasant laying over body forward for wingcase. Tie in with thread, whip finish, and head cement.

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Dragonflies Patterns

Bottom Walker

Hook: 10 to 6, long shank Thread: 6/0 black Body: Deer hair spun and clipped to shape of dragonfly nymph. Olive seal fur is then loosely dubbed over the deer hair Thorax: Olive seal fur Wingcase: Peacock eye Legs: Peacock eye, 4 strands out each side Note: A clump of moose mane can be tied down as beard to help make the fly wheedles.

Spin a clump of deer hair on to hook shank at bend of hook. Then tie in a few more clumps along shank of hook, leaving enough room for thorax. Trim deer hair to shape of a dragonfly nymph. Wrap thread back to bend of hook, and dub olive seal fur on to thread. Wrap seal fur forward, leaving some of the deer hair underneath visible. Tie in peacock eye with tips extending back over body. Tie in 2 strands of peacock eye out each side as legs. Dub olive seal on to thread and wrap forward to just before eye of hook. Tie in 2 more strands of peacock eye out each side. Pull peacock eye over thorax for wingcase. Trim, whip finish, and head cement.

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Crystal Dragon

Hook: 8 - 4 Mustad 9672 Thread: 6/0 black Body: Olive crystal chenille Legs: Olive pheasant rump Wingcase: Peacock eye Thorax: High quality peacock herl Eyes: Medium black or green plastic

Wrap thread forward to just before eye of hook, and secure plastic eyes to hook shank by making several figure eights back and forth over the eyes with the tying thread. Tie in crystal chenille at bend of hook. Wrap crystal chenille about 3/4 the way up the hook shank (leaving enough room for wingcase). Tie in several peacock eye fibers with tips extending back over body. Tie in several pheasant rump fibers out either side for legs. Legs should extend almost to the end of the body. Tie in 3 strands of good quality peacock herl and wrap forward up to the plastic eyes. Pull peacock eye fibers forward, over peacock herl thorax and plastic eyes, and secure in place with thread. Trim, whip finish, and head cement.

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Deer Hair Dragon

Hook: 10-6, long shank Thread: 6/0 black Body: Dyed green or brown deer hair spun Legs: Peacock eye Wingcase: Peacock eye Thorax: Seal fur, color to match body Eyes: Black medium plastic eyes

Tie in plastic eyes at the eye of the hook, by crossing thread in a figure eight motion back and forth over the eyes. Tie in 4 or 5 clumps of deer hair along the first 3/4 of the shank. Deer hair should flare out in all directions. Trim down deer hair roughly to get it out of your way, finishing touches can be done later. Tie in 4 or 5 strands of peacock eye for wingcase. With tips facing back over the body. Tie in 3 strands of peacock eye out either side for legs. Dub seal fur on to thread and wrap forward for thorax, right up to the plastic eyes. Pull peacock eye forward and secure with thread, and trim excess. Whip finish and head cement. Finish trimming deer hair to the shape of a dragonfly (darner).

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Deer Hair Gomphus

Hook: 10-6 nymph Thread: 6/0 color to match body Body: Brown or Olive deer hair, spun and clipped to shape of Gomphus Dragon Legs: Speckled pheasant Head: Spun deer hair, color to match body, clipped to shape

Tie in a clump of deer hair, about the diameter of a pencil at the bend of hook. Push hair back and tie in another clump right against the first clump. Tie in a few more clumps until you reach 3/4 the way up the hook shank. Clip deer hair to shape of Gomphus body. Make sure to leave enough hook gap on the bottom of the fly. Tie in speckled pheasant out each side, extending back as legs. Tie in a few more clumps of deer hair for head. Whip finish and head cement. Trim deer hair head, to shape.

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Emergers Patterns

Hares Ear Soft Hackle

Hook: 14-10 nymph Tail: Gray Partridge (optional) Body: Natural hares ear dubbing Rib: gold wire or oval tinsel Legs: Gray partridge (wrapped).

Slide medium gold bead on to hook then place the hook into fly vice. Wrap thread to bend of hook and tie in gold wire. Spin hares ear dubbing on to thread with fingers. Wrap dubbing forward to just before gold bead. Make a slight taper in the body. Tie in gray partridge by its tips at gold bead. Place other end of partridge in hackle pliers and make 2 wraps and secure with thread. Whip finish, and head cement.

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Leeches Patterns

Bead-head Dazzle Leech

Hook: 10-6 nymph Thread: 6/0 black Tail: black marabou Body: Black Dazzle dubbing with red. Head: Black bead Note: Can be tied with various colors of dazzle dubbing.

Slide a bead head on to hook before placing it in the vice. Secure thread on to hook, and wrap back to hook bend. Tie in marabou tips for tail. Tail should be about half the length of hook shank. Dub the dazzle dubbing on to thread, and wrap thread forward to bead head. Whip finish, and head cement. Finally, Use a bodkin to pull out dubbing to desired thickness.

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Bead-Head Mohair Leech

Hook: 10-6 nymph Thread: Olive 6/0 Tail: Olive marabou with a few strands of olive angel hair. Body: Olive mohair Head: Copper Bead Head Note: Can be tied in many other colors as well. Including black, maroon, and brown.

Before placing the fly on the vice, slide a bead head on to hook. Then, Tie in a clump of marabou at bend of hook. Tail should be about half the length of the hook shank. Next, tie in a few strands of angel hair on either side of the marabou. Wrap mohair along hook shank up to the bead head. Whip finsh and head cement. Use a bodkin to pull out the mohair.

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Bent Leech

Hook: 10-6 Mustad 9672, front half bent up 45 degrees Thread: 6/0 black Tail: Black marabou Body: Black seal fur picked out Weight: Lead wire on front half Note: Can be tied in others colors such as olive, brown, and maroon.

Place hook in vice, and bend the front half up 45 degrees. Wind lead wire on the front half of hook and secure in place with thread. Wrap thread back and forth over lead until it is no longer visible. Tie in marabou as tail at hook bend, tail should be about half the length of hook shank. Dub seal fur on to thread and wrap forward to eye of hook. Whip finish, and head cement. Use a bodkin to pull out seal fur.

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Gew Leech

Hook: 10-6 Nymph Thread: 6/0 black Tail: Black marabou Body: Green crystal chenille. Hackle: Black saddle (long)

Wrap thread to bend of hook, and tie in a short peice of marabou. Next, fold 2 black saddle hackle fibers and tie them in by their tips. Make sure they are facing the same way. Tie in crystal chenille. Wrap thread forward to eye of hook and then wrap chenille forward to eye of hook, secure with thread then trim. The next step is to wrap the saddle hackle forward. Wrap both pieces at the same time. The easiest way to do this is by placing the other end of the hackle fibers in hackle pliers to keep them flush. Then wrap the hackle forward. Stroking fibers back after each wrap Tie off hackle at eye of hook, whip finish, and head cement. Lastly, stroke hackle fibers back.

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Marabou Leech

Hook: TMC 300, Mustad 79580, sizes 4-8 Thread: Black 6/0 Tail: Black and maroon marabou Body: Black chenille Wing: Black and maroon marabou with a few strands of black krystal flash. Note: Can be tied in many other colors such as solid black, maroon, olive, or brown.

Wrap thread back to hook bend and tie in black marabou for tail. Tie in maroon marabou over top of the black marabou. Tie in black chenille, wrap thread forward, leaving enough room to tie in wing. Wrap chenille forward for body, and secure with thread. Tie in maroon marabou. Tips should extend back to end of tail. Tie in black chenille over maroon chenille, both should be approximately the same length. For added flash, you can tie in a few strands of krystal flash on either side of marabou. Trim excess marabou and krystal flash, whip finish, and head cement.

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Peacock Chenille Leech

Hook: 10-6, Streamer Thread: 6/0 black Tail: Black marabou Body: Plastic peacock or crystal chenille Head: Copper bead

Slide copper bead on to hook before placing on vice. Tie in black marabou at hook bend. Tail should be no more than 3/4 the shaft length. Trim excess marabou and tie in your peacock chenille and wrap thread up to your bead. Wrap chenille forward to bead, secure with thread, trim excess, whip finish, and head cement

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Rabbit Leech

Hook: 8 or 6 streamer Thread: 6/0 black Tail: Black rabbit strip Body: Black rabbit strip rapped Note: Can be tied in black, maroon, olive, and brown.

Tie in rabbit strip for tail. For the tail, tie in by the fur not by the skin. Tie in another rabbit strip by the skin for the body. Wrap the rabbit strip along hook shank pulling hair back as you wrap. Make sure each wrap of rabbit strip lays flush to the last wrap of rabbit strip. Secure rabbit strip with thread, whip finish and head cement.

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Spratley Leech

Hook: 10-6 Nymph Thread: 8/0 olive Tail: Olive marabou w/ a few strands of pearl flashabou Body: Olive dazzle dubbing Rib: Gold flat silver tinsel Head: Copper or gold bead head

Slide bead head on to hook before placing in vice. Tie in marabou at bend of hook for tail. Tail should be about half the length of the shank of the hook. Tie in a few strands of flashabou on both sides of the marabou tail. Then trim to the same length as tail. Tie in flat tinsel. Dub the dazzle dubbing on to thread and wrap forward to the bead head. Whip finish and head cement. Pull out dubbing with a bodkin, make sure not to pull on the ribbing.

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Woolly Bugger

Hook: 10-2 Thread: black 6/0 Tail: marabou Body: chenille Hackle: saddle hackle Note: Can be tied in almost any color including black, purple, red, pink, olive and green.

Tie in marabou at bend of hook for tail and trim butts. Tie in purple chenille and strip one side off of 2 saddle hackles, and tie in by their tips. Wrap purple chenille forward to just before eye of hook, secure with thread, and trim. Wrap the 2 saddle hackles forward pulling fibers back after each wrap. Secure hackle fibers with thread, trim excess, whip finish, and head cement.

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Mayflies Patterns

Adams

Hook: 10-20 Light Wire, dry fly Thread: 8/0 black Tail: Brown and grizzly hackle fibers Body: Gray muskrat underfur Wings: Grizzly hen hackle tips Hackle: Brown and grizzly hackle, mixed

Tie in mixed brown and grizzly hackle tips. Dub muskrat underfur on to thread and wrap 3/4 the way up the hook shank, with a taper. Tie in 2 grizzly hackle tips, standing straight up in a V. Tie in a brown and a grizzly hackle by their tips in front of the dubbing and wrap forward, and around the wings. Secure with thread, trim, and whip finish.

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Blue-wing Olive

Hook: TMC 100 12-20 Thread: olive 8/0 Tail: Blue dun hackle fibers Body: Medium olive rabbit dubbing Wing: Blue dun hackle fibers Hackle: Blue dun

Tie in blue dun hackle fibers at bend of hook for tail. Trim butts and wrap thread up about 3/4 the way up the hook shank. Tie in 2 blue dun hen hackle tips facing straight up for wing. Wing should be about the same length as the body. Wrap thread back to bend of hook and spin on dubbing. Wrap dubbing forward just over half way up the hook shank. Body should get slightly thicker towards eye of hook. Tie in 2 blue dun hackles by their tips and wrap each each hackle separately forward to the eye of the hook, be careful not to wrap over the wings. Secure hackles at eye of hook and trim excess. Whip finish and head cement.

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Delta Nymph

Hook: 12 to 6 nymph Thread: 6/0 black Tail: 3 brown goose biots Body: Rabbit dubbing with angel hair shavings mixed in Ribbing: Brown larva lace Shellback: Pheasant tail fibers Thorax: same as body

Tie in a brown goose biot out each side at bend of hook. Then tie in one more straight out the back between the other two goose biots. Tie in larva lace and let it hang back over tail. Spin dubbing on to thread and wrap forward 3/4 the way up the hook shank, getting slightly thicker towards the eye. Wrap larva lace forward, with about 3 or 4 wraps, depending on the size of the nymph. Secure with thread at end of the body. Tie in pheasant tail fibers with tips extending back over body. Spin more dubbing on to thread and wrap forward to eye of the hook. Make sure that the thorax is thicker than the body. Pull pheasant tail fibers forward over the thorax and secure with thread and trim at eye of the hook. Whip finish and head cement. Use a bodkin to pull out fibers from the thorax to form legs.

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Fullback

Hook: 14-8 nymph Thread: 8/0 black Tail: Pheasant rump Body: Peacock herl Wingcase: Pheasant rump Legs: Pheasant rump

Tie in pheasant rump at bend of hook for tail. Tail should be at least half the length of body. Tie in pheasant rump with tips extending back over tail for the wingcase. Tips of the wingcase will be used to form legs so measure before hand. Tie in peacock herl and wrap forward and tie off with thread just before the eye of the hook. Pull pheasant rump forward for wingcase and secure with thread. Pull pheasant rump down and back, and secure in position with several wraps of thread. Whip finish, and head cement.

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Halfback

Hook: 14-8 nymph Thread: 8/0 black Tail: Pheasant rump Body: Peacock herl Wingcase: Pheasant rump Thorax: Peacock herl Legs: Pheasant rump

Tie in a few pheasant rump tips at bend of hook for tail. Tie in 2 strands of peacock herl and wrap forward 3/4 the way up the hook shank. Body should be tapered, towards eye of hook. Secure with thread and trim Tie in pheasant rump for wingcase, with tips extending back over body. Tie in another 2 or 3 strands of peacock herl and wrap forward to eye of hook, making the thorax thicker than the abdomen. Tie in a few more tips of pheasant rump with tips extending underneath as legs. Pull pheasant rump for wingcase forward over thorax and secure with thread. Trim, whip finish, and head cement.

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Hares Ear Nymph

Hook: 16-10 Nymph Thread: Tan 8/0 Tail: Hare's mask guard hairs, or brown hackle fibers Rib: Fine oval gold tinsel Body: Hare's mask dubbing, thorax thicker than abdomen. Wingcase: Mottled turkey or Pheasant Tail

Tie in 10 to 15 hare's mask fibers at the bend of hook for the tail and trim off excess butts. Next, tie in oval gold tinsel. Apply hare's mask dubbing on to thread, by spinning it between your forefinger and thumb. Wind the dubbed thread forward, just past the middle of the shank of the hook. Next, wrap the oval wire ribbing over the dubbed body. Tie in Turkey quill with tip facing the hook bend. Make sure to put the shiny side of the quill facing up. Dub hare's mask dubbing on to your thread (thicker than the abdomen) and wrap it on to hook. Leave a small space between dubbing and the eye of your hook, to tie in your wingcase. Pull Turkey quill forward, over the hare's mask dubbing and secure with thread. Trim turkey quill, and whip finish. Using a bodkin, pull out some of the dubbing, under the wingcase for legs.

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Lighting Bug

Hook: 16 to 10 Tiemco 2302 Thread: 8/0 black Tail: Pheasant tail Body: Pearl, medium, flat mylar wrap Rib: Copper wire Wingcase: same as body Thorax: Peacock herl Legs: Pheasant tail Head: 1/8 Gold Bead (optional)

Slide gold bead on to hook and make several wraps of thread behind bead to secure bead in place. Wrap thread to bend of hook and tie in several pheasant tail fibers, and trim the butts. Tie in mylar tinsel and copper wire. Wrap mylar forward along shank, half way up the hook shank and secure in place with thread. Wrap copper wire over body and secure with thread and trim. Tie in another piece of mylar on top, back over the body. Tie in 2 pieces of peacock herl and wrap forward to just before the bead. Tie in several pheasant tail fibers out either side of the thorax. Pull mylar forward over peacock herl and legs. Secure with thread and trim. Whip finish and head cement..

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Olive Adams

Hook: 10-20 Light Wire, dry fly Thread: 8/0 black Tail: Brown and grizzly hackle fibers Body: olive dry fly dubbing Wings: Grizzly hen hackle tips Hackle: Brown and grizzly hackle, mixed

Tie in mixed brown and grizzly hackle tips. Dub olive dubbing on to thread and wrap 3/4 the way up the hook shank, with a taper. Tie in 2 grizzly hackle tips, standing straight up in a V. Tie in a brown and a grizzly hackle by their tips in front of the dubbing and wrap forward, and around the wings. Secure with thread, trim, and whip finish.

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Pheasant Tail Nymph

Hook:16-8 Nymph Thread: 8/0 black or brown Tail: Several Pheasant Tail Fibers Body: Pheasant Tail Fibers Rib: Fine or Medium Copper Wire Thorax: Peacock Herl Wings: Pheasant Tail Fibers Wingcase: Pheasant Tail Fibers

Get a Pheasant tail handy, because you'll need a lot of it for this fly. Tie in several fibers of pheasant tail at the beginning of the hook for tail. Tail should be approximately half the length of the hook shank. Tie in pheasant tail for body, with tips extended back over tail. Tie in your copper ribbing, and then wrap the pheasant tail forward, just past the half way point of the hook shank. Next wrap the copper ribbing forward over the pheasant tail body. Tie in more pheasant tail for the wingcase, with tips extending back over body.  Tie in 2 or 3 strands of peacock herl for thorax and wrap forward, leaving enough room to tie in wings and wingcase. Tie in several pheasant tail fibers on either side for wings. Tips should extend to end of thorax. Pull wingcase forward and tie off, and whip finish.

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Skip Nymph

Hook: 14-10 nymph Thread: 6/0 black Tail: Pheasant tail fibers Body: Rabbit antron dubbing Ribbing: Copper wire Shellback: Pheasant tail fibers Thorax: Rabbit antron dubbing well picked out

Tie in pheasant tail fibers at bend of hook with several wraps of thread, and then pull butts back over tail and secure back with several more wraps of thread. Tie in copper wire ribbing. Dub antron dubbing on to thread and wrap forward about 3/4 the way up the hook shank. Pull pheasant tail over body and secure with thread, do not trim butts, they will be used for wingcase. Wrap copper wire over shellback and body and secure with thread and trim. Pull the pheasant tail butts back and secure back with several wraps of thread. Dub a generous amount of antron dubbing on to thread and wrap forward to eye. Make thorax thicker than abdomen. Pull pheasant tail butts over thorax and secure with thread. Trim, whip finish, and head cement.

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Super Nymph

Hook: 12-8 Mustad 9672 Thread: Black 8/0 Tail: Pheasant tail Body: Pheasant tail wrapped Rib: Medium copper wire Wingcase: Pheasant tail Thorax: Brown dubbing Hackle: Brown saddle

Tie in pheasant tail for tail. Tail should be long, at least 3/4 length of body. Tie in more pheasant for body, with tips extending back. Tie in copper wire. Wrap pheasant tail for body forward about 1/2 to 3/4 the way up the hook shank with a slight taper. Tie in pheasant tail for wingcase, with tips extending back over body. Tie in 2 brown saddle hackles by their tips. Dub brown dubbing on to thread and wrap forward to just before eye of hook. Palmer hackle over the dubbing and stroke the hackle fibers back as you wrap. Pull wingcase over body and hackle and secure with thread. Whip finish and head cement.

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Midges Patterns

Black Gnat

Hook: 12-20 Light Wire, Dry Fly Thread: 6/0 black Tail: Black hackle fibers Body: Black rabbit fur Wings: Natural gray duck quill Hackle: Natural or dyed black hackle

First, wrap thread to a little over 3/4 the way up the hook shank and tie in 2 gray duck quills standing straight up as wings. Wrap thread back to bend of hook, and tie in black hackle fibers for tail. Dub black rabbit fur on to thread and wrap forward 3/4 the way up the hook shank. Tie in 1 or 2 strands of black hackle fibers and wrap them forward and around duck quill to eye of hook. Secure with thread, whip finish, and head cement.

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Grifths Gnat

Hook: 16-12 light wire Thread: 8/0 black Body: Peacock herl Hackle: Grizzly hackle

Tie in 2 grizzly hackles by their tips. Tie in 2 strands of peacock herl, and wrap them forward to eye of hook to form body. Palmer grizzly hackle over the peacock herl and secure with thread at the eye of the hook. Trim, whip finish, and head cement.

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Salmon Patterns

Bug Eyes

Hook: 4 to 1/0 Gamakatzu Thread: 6/0 Fire Orange Tail: Pink Marabou Body: Wool yarn spun or chenille Eyes: Nickel plated, tungsten barbell eyes

First, secure barbell eyes on to hook near the eye, by wrapping thread back and forth over the center of the eyes in a figure eight motion. Wrap thread, back to about half way down the hook shank and tie in marabou tail. Tie in a clump of wool yarn tightly and pull back with fingers, add another clump right up against the first clump, and continue adding until you have reached the eye of the hook. (wrapping around the barbell eyes) Trim yarn to shape of an egg. Whip finish, and head cement.

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Chum Fly

Hook: 4-1/0 Tiemco 7999 Thread: 6/0 fire orange Body: Flat silver tinsel (optional) Wing: Purple marabou w/ silver flashabou out each side Over-Wing: Light blue marabou

Tie in flat silver tinsel at bend of hook and wrap forward about 3/4 the way up the hook shank. Tie in purple marabou about 3/4 the way up the hook shank, marabou should extend well past the hook. Tie in a clump of light blue marabou over the purple marabou. Tie in 3 or 4 strands of silver flashabou out each side. Form a nice tapered head with thread, whip finish, and head cement.

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Chum Fly # 2

Hook: 4-1/0 Tiemco 7999 Thread: 6/0 fire orange Body: Flat silver tinsel (optional) Underwing: Peach marabou Wing: White marabou w/ silver flashabou out each side Over-Wing: Peach marabou

Tie in flat silver tinsel at bend of hook and wrap forward about 3/4 the way up the hook shank. Tie in peach marabou about 3/4 the way up the hook shank, marabou should extend well past the hook. Tie in a clump of white marabou over the peach marabou Tie in another clump of peach marabou over the white marabou. Tie in 3 or 4 strands of silver flashabou out each side. Form a nice tapered head with thread, whip finish, and head cement.

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Glo Bug

Hook: Size 8 - 6 short shank Thread: 6/0 Tan Body: Various shades glo bug yarn

Secure thread on to hook shank. Tie in a clump of glo bug yarn tightly. Causing tips to flair up. Tie in another clump up against the first clump, and repeat until you reach the eye of the hook. Whip finish and head cement. Trim yarn to shape of egg.

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Green Spruce

Hook: 6-2 salmon Thread: 6/0 black Tail: Fl. green hackle fibers Body: Fl. Green chenille Hackle: 2 Fl. green saddle hackles Wing: 2 Fl. Green saddle hackles

Tie in several fl. green saddle hackle fibers at bend of hook for tail. Tie in chenille and wrap forward to just before eye of hook. Tie in 2 strands of saddle hackles and wrap, stroking fibers back after each wrap. Tie in 2 saddle hackle fibers out top for wing, with dull sides facing in. Trim, whip finish, and head cement.

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Harrison Special

Hook: 6-2 Streamer Thread: 6/0 hot orange Tail: Rabbit Strip, should be about 1/2 length of body. Body: Mylar wrap Wing: Rabbit Strip Note: Can be tied in orange, pink, or red.

Tie in rabbit strip at bend of hook. For the tail you do not have to tie it in by the skin. Tie the rabbit in just after the skin, then trim. Tie in mylar wrap and wrap it forward for body. Tie in rabbit strip for wing. The tips should extend to the end of the tail. Since the wing is longer, you will need to tie the rabbit strip in by the skin. Trim excess, form a nicely shaped head with thread, whip finish, and head cement.

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Lead Eye Rabbit

Hook: 4 - 1/0 Gamakatzu Thread: 6/0 Fire Orange Wing: White Rabbit Fur Overwing: Fluorescent red or fluorescent pink rabbit fur Head: Chenille, colour to match overwing Eyes: Nickel plated barbell eyes

Secure barbell eyes to hook just before eye of hook, by wrapping thread back and forth over the barbell eyes in a figure eight motion. Wrap thread from eye, back about 1/3 down the hook shank. Tie in white rabbit fur underneath hook, rabbit fur should extend slightly past hook. Tie in red or pink rabbit fur on top of hook shank for overwing. Overwing should be same length as underwing. Tie in chenille and wrap forward, and around eyes to eye of hook and secure with thread. Trim, whip finish, and head cement.

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Pearlabou

Hook: 8 to 2 Thread: Fire orange 6/0 Tail: Unraveled pearl mylar tubing from body Body: Small pearl mylar tubing Underwing: Yellow marabou Wing: Fluorescent green marabou

Wrap thread to bend of hook. Slide a 1 1/2 inch piece of small pearl mylar tubing over eye of hook, and about 1 cm past hook bend. Secure at bend of hook with thread, and allow the last cm of mylar tubing to unravel to form tail. Whip finish and head cement at rear. 4) Tie in thread at eye of hook, and secure other end of mylar tubing in place. Tie in a piece of yellow marabou at eye of hook, with tips extending to end of tail. Tie in green marabou over the yellow marabou. Trim, whip finish, and head cement.

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Pink Passion

Hook: 4 - 1/0 Thread: 6/0 Fire Orange Tail: Unravelled pearl mylar wrap from body Body: Pearl Mylar tubing Shoulder: Fluorescent pink chenille Underhackle: Pearl krystal flash Hackle: Fluorescent pink marabou (sparse)

Wrap thread to bend of hook. Slide a 1 inch piece of mylar tubing over eye, to about 1 cm past hook bend. Secure mylar tubing at bend of hook with thread, and allow tips to unravel to form tail. Whip finish and head cement. Tie in thread, this time at the eye of the hook. Secure other end of mylar tubing with thread and trim excess. Wrap thread back about 1/2 way down the hook shank. And tie in fluorescent pink chenille. Wrap chenille forward, leaving enough room to tie in wing. Tie in a small clump of pearl flashabou out the top, bottom, and both sides. Tie in pink marabou sparsely over the pearl flashabou. Marabou should extend to the end of the tail. Trim, whip finish, and head cement.

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Pink Polar Shrimp

Hook: 6 - 2/0 Thread: 6/0 Fire Orange Tail: Pink saddle hackle fibers Body: Pink chenille Hackle: Pink saddle hackle Wing: White calftail

Tie in several pink saddle hackle fibers at the bend of the hook for the tail. Tie in pink chenille and wrap forward to just before eye of hook. Tie in 1 pink saddle hackle by its tip, and make 3 or 4 wraps, secure with thread and trim. Stroke fibers back after each wrap. Tie in white calftail over top as wing. Wing should extend beyond the body. Trim, whip finish, and head cement.

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Pixies Revenge

Hook: Mustad 36890 size 4 to 1/0 Thread: 6/0 Fluorescent fire Orange Wing: White marabou, with silver flashabou and red krystal flash Hackle: Marabou fluff from the base of pink saddle hackle

Wrap thread along hook shank to about half a centimeter behind eye of hook. Tie in 2 white marabou feathers extending back well past hook. Tie in several strands of silver flashabou out both sides and on top. Tie in several strands of red krystal flash on both sides and top. Strip fibers from the base of saddle hackle and tie in on top, bottom and both sides as a collar. Trim, whip finish, and head cement.

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Plastic Egg

Hook: 4 - 1/0 Gamakatzu Thread: 6/0 Fire Orange Body: Pink, red, or orange plastic chenille Wing: White marabou

Tie in plastic chenille half way between eye of hook and hook bend. Wrap chenille forward to eye of hook, continue to wrap over top until you have formed an egg. Secure with thread and trim. Tie in white marabou wing over top. Trim, whip finish, and head cement.

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Polar Shrimp

Hook: 6 - 2/0 Thread: 6/0 Fire Orange Tail: Fluorescent orange hackle fibers Body: Fluorescent orange chenille Hackle: Fluorescent orange hackle Wing: White calftail

Tie in several fluorescent orange hackle fibers at bend of hook for tail. Next, tie in fluorescent orange chenille and wrap thread forward followed by chenille. Fold one fluorescent orange saddle hackle and tie in. Make 2 or 3 wraps stroking fibers back after each wrap. Secure with thread and trim. Even up the tips of a clump of white calftail, and tie in over top as wing. Wing should extend past body. Trim, whip finish, and head cement.

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Rabbit Leech

Hook: 8 or 6 Streamer Thread: 6/0 Black Tail: Purple rabbit strip Body: Purple rabbit strip rapped Note: Can be tied in purple, black, pink, red, chartreuse or green

Tie in rabbit strip for tail. For the tail, tie in by the fur not by the skin. Tie in another rabbit strip by the skin for the body. Wrap the rabbit strip along hook shank pulling hair back as you wrap. Make sure each wrap of rabbit strip lays flush to the last wrap of rabbit strip. Secure rabbit strip with thread, whip finish and head cement.

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Rolled Muddler

Hook: Size 14-6 3X long Thread: red 6/0 Tail: Olive Mallard flank Body: Medium flat silver tinsel Underwing: Olive Mallard flank Mid-wing: Pearl or Olive flashabou Overwing: natural deer hair (sparse) Head: Spun deer hair

Tie in mallard at bend of hook for tail. Tie in flat tinsel, and wrap forward, overlapping slightly on each wrap. Leaving room for deer hair head. Tie in mallard for wing, wing should reach past the body. Tie in several strands of flashabou for mid-wing. Spin deer hair for head. By placing a clump over the shank and making several tight wraps. Trim deer hair to desired shape, leaving a few strands extending back.

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Russian Fly

Hook: 8 - 2 streamer hook Thread: 6/0 Black Tail: Medium flat silver tinsel Body: White bucktail Mid-wing: Pearl flashabou Wing: Red bucktail

Tie in flat silver tinsel at bend of hook and wrap forward to just before eye of hook and secure with thread and trim. Even tips of a clump of white bucktail and tie underneath and the underwing. The bucktail should extend past the hook. Tie in several strands of pearl flashabou over top along body. Tips should be even with the white bucktail. Tie in red bucktail over top, Tips should be even with flashabou and white bucktail. Trim, whip finish, and head cement.

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Salmon Killer

Hook: 6 - 1/0 Thread: 6/0 Black Tail: Fluorescent green/chartreuse rabbit strip with green krystal flash Body: Chartreuse/Fluorescent green chenille Rib: Medium flat silver tinsel Wing: Rabbit strip (color to match tail) Legs: Green krystal flash

Tie in rabbit strip at bend of hook for tail. Tie in rabbit strip by its skin, and clip to desired size and length. Tie in krystal flash over top of rabbit strip. Tie in silver ribbing and chenille. Wrap chenille forward along hook shank for body. Secure with thread and trim. Wrap silver ribbing over the chenille, secure with thread and trim. Tie in krystal flash out bottom and clip to desired length. Tie in another rabbit strip out top for wing. Wing should extend well past body. Trim, whip finish, and head cement.

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Sockeye Special

Hook: 6-2 Streamer Thread: 6/0 Black Tail: Fl. Green Rabbit Strip, should be about 1/2 length of body. Body: Mylar wrap Wing: Fl. Green Rabbit Strip

Tie in rabbit strip at bend of hook. For the tail you do not have to tie it in by the skin. Tie the rabbit in just after the skin, then trim. Tie in mylar wrap and wrap it forward for body. Tie in rabbit strip for wing. The tips should extend to the end of the tail. Since the wing is longer, you will need to tie the rabbit strip in by the skin. Trim excess, form a nicely shaped head with thread, whip finish, and head cement.

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Sockeye Woolly Bugger

Hook: 8 - 2 Streamer Thread: 6/0 hot orange Tail: Bright green marabou Body: Green crystal chenille Hackle: Yellow/bright green saddle

Tie in marabou at bend of hook for tail, trim excess butts. Tie in crystal chenille and 2 saddle hackles by their tips. Wrap chenille forward to just before eye of hook and secure with thread and trim. Wrap saddle hackles forward, pulling them back after each wrap. Secure with thread and trim. Whip finish, and head cement.

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Woolly Bugger

Hook: 10-6 streamer Thread: 6/0 black Tail: Black marabou Body: Crystal chenille Hackle: Black saddle hackle

Tie in marabou at bend of hook for tail, trim excess butts. Tie in crystal chenille and 2 saddle hackles by their tips. Wrap chenille forward to just before eye of hook and secure with thread and trim. Wrap saddle hackles forward, pulling them back after each wrap. Secure with thread and trim. Whip finish, and head cement.

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Shrimp Patterns

Crystal Shrimp

Hook: 14-8 nymph Thread: 8/0 tan Tail: Natural deer hair Body: Olive crystal chenille Shellback: Natural deer hair.

Tie in deer hair tail at bend of hook and then pull deer hair butts back and secure back with several wraps of thread (butts will be used to form shellback. Tie in crystal chenille and wrap it forward. Pull deer hair butts forward over chenille, and secure with thread. Trim, whip finish and head cement.

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Electric Angel

Hook: 14-8 nymph Thread: 6/0 black Tail: pheasant tail fibers Body: Peacock or olive angel hair Wingcase: Pheasant tail fibers.

Tie in pheasant tail fibers at bend of hook, pull butts back over tail and secure in place with thread. Cut about a 1 and a half inch clump of angel hair and spin it on to your thread and wrap forward towards eye of hook. You may have to add 1 or 2 other clumps as well. Pull pheasant tail fibers forward over angel hair and secure in place at eye of hook. Trim, whip finish, and head cement. Pull out angel hair with a bodkin to form legs, and then trim.

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Larva Lace Scud

Hook: 14 to 10 Scud/Shrimp Thread: 8/0 olive Underbody: Shades of tan and olive dubbing Overbody: Larva Lace, color to match underbody Legs: Dubbing from underbody, pulled out

Tie in larva lace at bend of hook. Spin dubbing on to thread and loosely wrap forward to eye of hook. Use a bodkin to pull down the dubbing to form legs. Be careful not to pull on any thread. Wrap larva lace forward, leaving small gaps in-between wraps. Pull dubbing out in-between wraps. Secure larva lace at eye of hook with thread, and trim. Whip finish and head cement.

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Pregnant Scud

Hook: 14 - 8 heavy wire curved shrimp Thread: 8/0 olive Body: olive seal w/ bright red seal in middle Shellback: olive scud back Rib: Olive thread

Tie thread on to look, and leave tag end of thread hanging out back (It will be used for ribbing) Tie in olive scud back. 3) Dub olive seal on to tying thread and wrap it forward to just before middle of hook shank. Then dub a small amount of bright red seal on to thread and make 2 or 3 wraps. Dub more olive dubbing on to thread and wrap to the eye of the hook. Pull scud back over body and secure with thread. Wrap tag end of thread tightly over body and scud back in even segments. Secure tag end of thread with tying thread, trim, whip finish, and head cement. Use a bodkin to pull out dubbing for legs, be careful not to pull on the thread wraps.

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Scud

Hook: TMC 2457 14-8 Thread: 6/0 olive Body: Shades of olive or tan dubbing Shellback: scudback color to match body. Rib: Silver Wire Legs: Dubbing from body well picked out.

Tie in shellback, and ribbing. Make a dubbing loop and wrap dubbing along shank of hook. Pull shellback forward over dubbing and tie it down with thread, and trim. Wrap silver ribbing over shellback and ribbing. Tie off the silver ribbing, trim, whip finish and head cement. Using a bodkin pull out out dubbing on the underside of the fly. Make sure not to pull on the silver ribbing.

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Werner Shrimp

Hook: 12-8 nymph Thread: 8/0 black or tan Tail: Deer hair Body: Olive seal Shellback: Deer hair Hackle: Brown saddle palmered

Tie in deer hair tips as tail, tail should be short (about 1/4 or less of the body) Tie in more deer hair for shellback, with tips extending back over tail. Tie in 2 saddle hackles by their tips. Dub olive seal on to thread and wrap forward to just before the eye of the hook. Palmer saddle hackle over the seal fur and secure with thread. Pull deer hair over top of seal and hackle and tie in at eye of hook. Whip finish and head cement. Trim any hackle that is sticking up or to the sides.

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Steelhead Patterns

Black Spey

Hook: 6 to 1/0 Thread: 6/0 black Tag: Medium flat silver tinsel Body: Black floss Rib: Medium oval silver tinsel Hackle: black spey hackle Wing: 2 black saddle hackles

Tie in flat silver tinsel on bend of hook, make 3 or 4 wraps, secure with thread and trim. Tie in oval rib and black floss. Wrap floss forward 1/2 way up hook shank and secure with thread but do not trim. Then, wrap oval tinsel over floss and secure with thread at mid-point of hook shank, but do not trim. Tie in a black spey hackle by its tips. Wrap floss around spey hackle and secure with thread at eye of hook, and trim. Wrap oval tinsel over floss and around spey hackle and secure with thread and trim. Wrap the spey hackle forward, pulling fibers back after each stroke, secure with thread at eye of hook and trim. Tie in 2 black saddle hackles for wing, make sure dull sides are facing in. Form a neat head with thread, whip finish, and head cement.

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Double Egg and Sperm

Hook: 8-2 salmon Thread: 6/0 black Tag: Flat silver tinsel Body: 2 fl. orange chenille sections seperated by flat silver tinsel Hackle: Pink saddle hackle Wing: White marabou

Tie in flat silver tinsel, slightly down the bend of hook and wrap forward slightly. Tie in fl. orange chenille and make 2 or 3 wraps to form a shape of an egg. Tie in flat silver tinsel and wrap forward 3/4 the way up the hook shank and tie in another piece of chenille and make another 2 or 3 wraps. Tie in one piece of pink saddle hackle and make 3 or 4 wraps and secure with thread and trim. Tie in a clump of white marabou out top as wing. Trim, whip finish, and head cement.

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Down and Dirty

Hook: 8 - 1/0 Thread: black 6/0 Tail: Purple marabou w/ black krystal flash Body: Black rabbit strip

Tie in a clump of purple marabou at bend of hook for tail. Then tie in a few strands of black krystal flash on both sides of the marabou tail. Tie in a black rabbit strip and wrap it forward to eye of hook, stroking rabbit fur back as you wrap. Trim, whip finish, and head cement.

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General Practitioner (Black)

Hook: 4 - 1/0 salmon Thread: 6/0 black Tail: Black squirrel tail Body: Black mohair or wool Eyes: Golden pheasant tippet feather Rib: Medium, oval, silver tinsel Hackle: Black cock neck feather Wing: Black spade hackles Note: Black plastic eyes can be substituted for golden pheasant tippet feather

Tie in squirrel tail at bend of hook for tail, tail should be long. Tie in silver oval tinsel for ribbing. Tie in black mohair. Fold black cock neck around its stem so that one side has no hackle tips and tie it in at bend of hook. Wrap mohair 1/2 way up the hook shank and then secure with thread, but do not trim butt. Tie in golden pheasant tippet feather, out back extending from middle of body to just past the body. Continue wrapping mohair forward to just before eye, secure with thread and trim. Then wrap ribbing over mohair, pull pheasant tips up so you are sure not to wrap the ribbing over the feather. Secure with thread and eye of hook and trim. Next wrap the cock feather forward, make sure not to wrap over the pheasant tippet. Pull hackle fibers back as you warp forward. Secure with thread at eye of hook and trim. Tie in two black spade hackles on top of body extending back to about half way down the tail. Form a small head with tying thread, whip finish, and head cement.

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Greased Liner

Hook: 4 - 1/0 salmon Thread: 6/0 black Tail: Natural deer hair Body: Black seal fur Wing: Natural deer hair Head: Butts from wing

Tie in a clump of natural deer hair at bend of hook for tail. Tail should be short. About 1/4 length of the body. Spin black seal on to thread and wrap forward, leaving enough room for head. Tie in a clump of deer hair over the back for wing. The wing should extend back to end of tail. Trim butts of wing to form a small head. Whip finish and head cement.

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Green Butt Skunk

Hook: 8 to 2 Thread: 6/0 black Tail: Red mallard flankButt: Fl. Green Chenille Body: Black chenille Rib: Medium flat silver tinsel Hackle: Black saddle Wing: White calftail

Tie in mallard flank at bend of hook for tail. Tie in fl green chenille, make 1 or 2 wraps, secure with thread and trim. Tie in flat silver tinsel and black chenille. Wrap chenille forward, followed by chenille. Secure chenille at eye of hook and trim. Wrap tinsel over chenille, secure with thread, and trim. Tie in 1 black saddle hackle, and make 2 or 3 wraps, secure with thread, and trim. Wrap thread back slightly, while stroking hackle fibers back. Tie in white calftail on top as wing. Wing should extend past body. Trim, whip finish, and head cement.

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Orange Shrimp

Hook: 8-1/0 Thread: black 6/0 Tail: Fl. Orange hackle fibers Body: Fl. Orange Hairline Dubbing Rib: Flat medium silver tinsel Wing: White calftail Legs: Fl. Orange hackle fibers.

Tie in a clump of fl. orange saddle hackle at bend of hook for tail. Next, tie in your silver ribbing. Spin orange dubbing on to thread and wrap forward to just before eye of hook. Tie in some more orange hackle fibers underneath for legs. Legs should be approximately the same length as the tail. Use a hair stacker to even up the tips of a clump of calftail fibers. Remove any underfur and or any short hairs and tie in as wing. Wing should extend beyond the body. Trim, whip finish, and head cement.

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Purple Spey

Hook: 6 to 2 Streamer Thread: 6/0 black Tag: Medium flat silver tinsel Body: Black floss Rib: Medium oval silver tinsel Hackle: Purple spey hackle Wing: 2 black saddle hackles. Throat: Natural guinea

Tie in flat silver tinsel on bend of hook, make 3 or 4 wraps, secure with thread and trim. Tie in oval rib and black floss. Wrap floss forward 1/2 way up hook shank and secure with thread but do not trim. Then, wrap oval tinsel over floss and secure with thread at mid-point of hook shank, but do not trim. Tie in a purple spey hackle by its tips. Wrap floss around spey hackle and secure with thread at eye of hook, and trim. Wrap oval tinsel over floss and around spey hackle and secure with thread and trim. Wrap the spey hackle forward, pulling fibers back after each stroke, secure with thread at eye of hook and trim. Tie in 2 black saddle hackles for wing, make sure dull sides are facing in. Tie in guinea fibers for throat, on both sides and underneath. Form a neat head with thread, whip finish, and head cement.

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Red Spey

Hook: 6 to 1/0 Thread: 6/0 red Tag: Medium flat silver tinsel Body: red floss Rib: Medium oval silver tinsel Hackle: red spey hackle Wing: 2 red saddle hackles.

Tie in flat silver tinsel on bend of hook, make 3 or 4 wraps, secure with thread and trim. Tie in oval rib and red floss. Wrap floss forward 1/2 way up hook shank and secure with thread but do not trim. Then, wrap oval tinsel over floss and secure with thread at mid-point of hook shank, but do not trim. Tie in a red spey hackle by its tips. Wrap floss around spey hackle and secure with thread at eye of hook, and trim. Wrap oval tinsel over floss and around spey hackle and secure with thread and trim. Wrap the spey hackle forward, pulling fibers back after each stroke, secure with thread at eye of hook and trim. Tie in 2 red saddle hackles for wing, make sure dull sides are facing in. Form a neat head with thread, whip finish, and head cement.

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Silver Admiral

Hook: 8-1/0 Thread: black 6/0 Tail: Fl. Pink hackle fibers Body: Fl. Pink Hareline Dubbing Rib: Flat medium silver tinsel Wing: White calftail Legs: Fl. Pink hackle fibers.

Tie in a clump of fl. pink saddle hackle at bend of hook for tail. Next, tie in your silver ribbing. Spin pink dubbing on to thread and wrap forward to just before eye of hook. Select 1 pink saddle hackle, and tie it in by its tip. Make 3 or 4 wraps, pulling fibers back as you wrap. Secure with thread and trim. Use a hair stacker to even up the tips of a clump of calftail fibers. Remove any underfur and or any short hairs and tie in as wing. Wing should extend beyond the body. Trim, whip finish, and head cement.

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Skunk

Hook: 8 to 2 Thread: 6/0 black Tail: Red mallard flank Body: Black chenille Rib: Medium flat silver tinsel Hackle: Black saddle Wing: White calftail.

Tie in mallard flank at bend of hook for tail. Tie in flat silver tinsel and black chenille. Wrap chenille forward, followed by chenille. Secure chenille at eye of hook and trim. Wrap tinsel over chenille, secure with thread, and trim. Tie in 1 black saddle hackle, and make 2 or 3 wraps, secure with thread, and trim. Wrap thread back slightly, while stroking hackle fibers back. Tie in white calftail on top as wing. Wing should extend past body. Trim, whip finish, and head cement.

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Stillaguamish Sunrise

Hook: 8 to 2 Thread: 6/0 black Tail: Mixed yellow and red saddle hackle fibers Body: Yellow or Red chenille Rib: Medium silver tinsel Hackle: Yellow and red saddle Wing: White calftail.

Tie in several yellow and red saddle hackle fibers at bend of hook for tail. Tie in flat silver tinsel. Tie in chenille. Wrap thread forward followed by chenille, secure chenille at eye of hook and trim. Wrap tinsel forward over chenille and secure with thread and trim. Tie in 1 red and 1 yellow saddle hackle, and make 2 or 3 wraps, secure with thread, and trim. Wrap back slightly with thread, while stroking the hackle back. Tie in white calftail over top of body for wing. Wing should extend beyond the body. Trim, whip finish, and head cement.

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Stoneflies Patterns

Kaufman's Stone (Black)

Hook: TMC 300, weighted Tail: 2 black goose biots Body: Black dubbing Rib: Black Swannundaze Wingcase:Three separated sections of lacquered dark turkey tail, clipped to shape. Thorax: Same as body Head: Same as body Antennae: Two black goose biots.

Cross 2 black goose biots to form an X and tie in where the 2 biots meet. Wrap thread to eye of hook and tie in 2 more goose biots by the same method. Make sure that the line will still be able to pass through the eye of the hook. Wrap lead wire along shank from one end of the hook shank to the other, leaving small gaps between the eye and tail of the hook. Wrap thread back and forth over lead wire until it is no longer visible. Then wind thread back to tail. Tie in black swannundaze. Spin black dubbing on to thread and wrap forward to half way up hook shank. Body should have a distinct taper, getting larger towards the middle of the shank. Tie in a section of turkey quill, lacquer, and then trim to from a "V tip". Wrap dubbing over base of turkey and tie in another turkey quill as in step 7. Once again make 2 or 3 wraps of dubbing along base of turkey quill and tie in another turkey quill and trim. Spin more black dubbing on to thread and make several wraps to form a head. Whip finish and head cement.

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Terrestrials Patterns

Black Ant

Hook: 14-10 94849 Mustad Dry Fly Thread: 8/0 black Back Half: black UNI-Yarn Hackle: Black saddle Front Half: Black UNI-Yarn

Tie in black UNI-yarn at bend of hook, and wind forward to just before half way up the hook shank making a small hump to represent the rear half of an ant. Secure with thread and trim off UNI-yarn. Tie in 1 black saddle hackle by its tip and make 2 or 3 wraps and secure with thread and trim. Tie in another strand of UNI-yarn and wrap forward to eye of hook forming another hump, slightly smaller than the rear hump. Trim excess UNI-yarn, whip finish, and head cement.

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Waterboatman Patterns

Deja Vu

Hook: 14 to 10 nymph Thread: 8/0 black Tail: White Z-lon Body: Tan antron or rabbit dubbing Wingcase: Pheasant tail Legs: 1 olive brown biot out each side Head: Peacock herl (Optional)

Tie in a a clump of Z-lon at bend of hook and trim to about 1/3 length of the body. Tie in pheasant tail fibers with tips extending back over tail. Spin tan dubbing on to thread and wrap forward to just before eye of hook. Pull pheasant tail forward over tan dubbing and secure with thread and trim. Tie in a brown goose biot out each side for legs. Legs should extend approximately the length of the body. Trim, whip finish, and head cement.

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Peacock Boatman

Hook: 14 to 10 nymph Thread: 8/0 black Body: Peacock herl Wingcase: Mottled turkey or pheasant tail Legs: 1 olive goose biot out each side

Tie in pheasant tail or mottled turkey at bend of hook with tips pointing back. Tie in 3 strands of peacock herl by their tips. Wrap peacock herl forward to just before eye of hook and secure with thread. Pull pheasant or turkey forward over the peacock herl and secure with thread and trim. Tie in 1 olive goose biot out each side as legs. Legs should extend the length of the body. Trim, whip finish, and head cement.

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Water Boatman

Hook: 14-10 nymph Thread: 6/0 black Body: Yellow or tan yarn Legs: Black superfloss Shellback: Pheasant tail Water Bubble: Thick silver wire

Tie in a strand of superfloss out either side of the middle of the hook shank. Tie in pheasant tail with tips extending back. Dub yarn on to thread and wrap forward, around the legs and up to the eye of the hook. Tie in thick silver wire, and wrap back over the dubbing about 5 mm or 2 hook eyes. Wrap back and forth until all of the dubbing in this area is covered in silver wire. Tie off wire at eye of hook. Pull pheasant tail over body and secure with thread at eye of hook. Trim, whip finish, and head cement.

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Phone 604-796-1210 • Fraser River Fishing Lodge 7984 McDonald Rd. Agassiz, BC Canada • info@fraserriverlodge.com
Sturgeon, Salmon, Steelhead and Trout Fishing in British Columbia Canada

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